With the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, the use of protective masks have become part of our daily routine. While restrictions have eased and we are no longer required to wear masks outdoors, indoor mask-wearing, such as in malls and workplaces still apply. Hence, many people like my patients and myself included still spend the majority of the day masked-up, especially if we do not have the luxury of working from home. A frequent concern I come across from my patients, especially those with oily-skin types is that they find their pores clogged easily and more prone to acne, especially in the lower face area where the mask covers. This is also how the term mask-ne came about.
The constant friction on our skin from mask wear and the warm and moist environment beneath our masks impairs normal shedding of skin cells and increases the likelihood of clogged pores. Proper exfoliation is important to help with skin cell turnover and unclog pores. While those with normal skin types without any skin problems can often use most types of skin exfoliators without issue, those with problems like mask-ne or acne-prone skin may have to be more selective about what they use.
Exfoliation can be categorised into physical and chemical exfoliation. Physical exfoliation refers to the process of mechanically dislodging surface dead skin cells and debris, for instance with a textured-surface washcloth or with products that contain tiny grainy particles, like sugar scrubs or fine walnut shells. Your skin may instantly feel smoother and look brighter. However, those with sensitive skin need to exercise caution, and perhaps start on a smaller area, once a week first, before increasing the frequency. It could potentially cause micro-tears in the skin, hence I would not recommend it for those with widespread actively inflamed acne and skin infections. Those who are suffering from mainly clogged pores/blackheads (comedonal acne) that are not inflamed would be more suitable candidates.
Chemical exfoliation involves the use of acids or enzymes to dissolve bonds between and loosen surface skin cells. AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) and BHAs (Beta-hydroxy acids) are useful chemical exfoliants that are widely available. AHAs would be more suitable for dry, ageing skin that would benefit from more moisture retention and are a good choice for those who are more concerned with reducing wrinkles and sun damage. BHAs on the other hand are oil-soluble and have anti-bacterial properties, hence it is a better option for those with oily, acne-prone skin that is prone to clogs. For first-time users or those with sensitive skin, I would recommend using chemical exfoliants every-other-night first before increasing the frequency to once and then possibly twice daily.
AHAs and BHAs are also commonly used for in-clinic chemical peels, but at a much higher concentration and are usually done once every 1-2 months. Over-the-counter products would be at a lower concentration and are often formulated for daily use. They are an integral part of home care and with continued usage, confer anti-acne and anti-ageing benefits, without the associated downtime of clinic peels.
An example of an AHA is glycolic acid and an example of a BHA is salicylic acid. These are commonly found in off-the-shelf products such as cleansers, toners and serums.
Below is an example of how a chemical exfoliant like salicylic acid can be incorporated into the daily skin care regime of someone with mask-ne or acne-prone skin that is not particularly sensitive:
Cleanse - Using a gentle soap-free cleanser. Make sure to cleanse for long enough (1 minute). If there is makeup or sunscreen on the skin, it is important to double cleanse, with the 1st step of cleansing using a makeup remover such as micellar water.
Tone - Salicyclic acid (BHA) toner. Some products incorporate both salicylic acid (BHA) and glycolic acid (AHA) - these can also be used.
Serum (optional but good to have) - Contains active ingredients like Niacinamide, for instance. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and has anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing properties. It is also good for reducing acne marks and excess sebum production.
Moisturise - Light, oil-free moisturiser. Good if they contain beneficial ingredients like hyaluronic acid, or ceramides which can help to repair the skin barrier.
Retinol or Retinoid gel/cream (night time) - These are vitamin-A derivatives that help to improve skin cell turnover (hence preventing clogged pores and acne) and are also anti-ageing at the same time. For normal-oily skin that is not sensitive, it is actually safe and effective to use retinol/retinoids together with BHA/AHA, contrary to certain skincare myths.
Sunscreen (day time) - SPF 30 and above, and labelled with keywords like oil-free and non-comedogenic (meaning it won't clog pores). Regular application is important to prevent darkening of acne marks and premature ageing.
I hope this blog post has been helpful in providing guidance on how you can remedy clogged or acne-prone skin. Personally, I have acne-prone skin, and mask-wear has definitely not helped. Proper home care, combined with in-clinic treatments like lasers have fortunately kept things under control. Feel free to leave a comment or message me if you have any questions!
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